I think this is due cable twist when the handlebars are rotated back and forth. After adjustment put a paint mark across the two halves of the adjuster and see if it is happening. Among other benefits, this makes it easier to grab the cable and pull out slack.
I like to use a third hand tool for this. Thanks for sharing your tips, Mark. Marking the barrel adjusters so you can tell if the adjustment has changed is genius! In my opinion, the nicest thing about electric front derailleurs is being able to raise and lower them when you want to go to larger or smaller chainrings.
With an e-derailleur, you just move it up or down — as you well know. Thanks again Mark. Great tips! The integrated adjuster is also on the FD upgrade FD for This 11 speed FD also works as an upgrade for Tiagra, that also used the hard to adjust long arm FD design, which is very sensitive to cable tension.
I also have found FDs hard to select, primarily for small large chainrings, as determining if the bottom of the cage will hit the chain stay is basically impossible without trying it. I did find that Shimano makes the FD-CX70 for 10 speed , Ultegra, etc, with a short cage for cyclecross that solves this problem. I should have also said that you definitely need to read the instructions for these integrated adjuster FDs.
They have scribe lines you align to set the cable tension. I adjust unscrew the barrel adjustment. Next ride she says it is working great. One or two rides later it is back to not shifting into the big chain ring.
I can tell by inspection that it has screwed back in. Great article, would have been great to know this 5 months ago. And yes, it is maddening. Fortunately the ride is well-supported so after 20 miles of this I stopped at one of the bike repair stations.
Tightening the cable seems counterintuitive to me that it would shorten the travel , so my guess would have been completely wrong. Now I know — thanks much! Thanks for sharing your story! STP has fabulous tech support. I gave up on front derailers. In my terrain I can ride the big ring 42T up front and T 8-speed cassette in back everywhere I go in suburban Howard County, MD for my 23 mile round trip commutes. I am a weak rider, though. But very freeing to not have a FD and just use the one ring up front.
Note that not all bikes need a Backup Plate. Thanks a lot, your article is amazing. I only say that because it often looks like just a Shimano ad or marketing copy, but file is usually a pdf with technical info. Re: Setting up Ultegra R front derailleur - way confusing. Originally Posted by j44ke. Re: Setting up Ultegra R front derailleur - way confusing Wow - 25 pages.
To install a front derailleur. Thanks, though. Does look helpful. Will try to see if I can find similar pdfs for RD and shifters. Re: Setting up Ultegra R front derailleur - way confusing It's not intuitive at all, I had my tablet next to me while I watched a youtube video to set it up. Almost a year later, I haven't touched it again, it's a hassle to set up versus older designs, but once you get the cable routed and the slack out, it works so well.
Re: Setting up Ultegra R front derailleur - way confusing Timely. I'm about to install an R group. Thanks for the links! Originally Posted by ChristianWong. It can also be used to enable multi-shift multi-shift is where the shifter is held and the rear derailleur shifts through multiple gears until the shifter is released. The delay between of the gear changes during multi-shifting can also be adjusted.
This plugs into a special port on the side of the A junctions which is covered by a rubber flap. This adapter charges the internal battery when first plugged into the A junction; it must be powered by a standard USB Wall charger such as that used for an Apple iPhone or a PC that is powered-on.
It must be detached from the computer and reattached to switch back to charging mode. Hacking the SM-BCR2 to have a standard Di2 cable connector: If your 3-port or 5-port junction is inaccessible for charging, there is an alternative hack method to connect it to the system through a standard Di2 port.
With basic soldering skills you can hack the BCR2 to be used with any setup. Buy any length EW-SD50 wire, cut off one end. Cut the wire on the output side of the BCR2. Splice the two wires together, so that the output wire of the BCR2 is now a standard Di2 connector.
The charger has an inner white and outer shield wire; connect the inner white wire to the SD50 red wire; connect the charger outer shield wire to the SD50 black wire. You will then be able to plug the BCR2 into any Di2 port. Thanks to Di2diy for the info. It attaches to via the standard E-tube wire just like the EW-SD50 cables rather than to a dedicated port on the side of the front A junction. Bluetooth and E-tube Apps for Apple iOS and Android: Bluetooth wireless modules are available to allow system settings to be adjusted via the mobile applications that connect via Bluetooth Adapters.
The confusing naming system used by Shimano makes it difficult to figure out what each component is, much less what it does and how it fits into an a complete Di2 system. As like the Ultegra version, they are compatible with the climbing shifters. There is no Ultegra option offered at this time. Combined weight both levers: grams. Slightly heavier and much less expensive than the Dura-Ace version. These require the BR dual piston hydraulic disc calipers.
For both, the lower button upshifts into a harder gear and the upper button downshifts to an easier gear. This can be changed using the Shimano E-tube Project software; the functions of the left and right sifters can be switched with one another as well. These are available in pairs or separately.
I personally think this version is absolutely worthless. Why have 2 SW shifters at twice the price and twice the weight, when you can just buy a single SW-R Right shifter instead. Unlike all of the other shifters, the sprint shifters do not contain a circuit board; they do not show up as components on the CAN bus network.
The host dual control lever is what sends the shift command. Note: Any momentary switch can be attached to the sprint shifter port on the Dual Control Levers by splicing into a standard EW-SD50 wire to act as remote shifters.
SW-R Time Trial bar-end shifters pair : These are-end shifters directly control the rear derailleur, with one for the upshfit and one for the downshift. The front derailleur is controlled automatically via automatic Synchronized Shifting. They come with plastic mounts to make it easier to attach to bars beneath bar tape. They are ideal for synchronized shifting, with one controlling the upshifts and the other downshifts.
FD Ultegra Front Derailleur, pretty much identical to the FD but with a slightly larger diameter adjusting screw to better dissipate the shifting forces. It uses an 8-speed or speed internal epicyclic rear hub. It is believed to be compatible with other Di2 ETube components but this has not been verified. It has an 2 wiring ports, so it can be connected between a front shifter and the Front Junction A, or at the rear derailleur between rear derailleur and Etube wire.
It is powered by the same Di2 system battery. The hidden buttons under the hoods of the shifter levers will switch screens on the cycling computer when paired with this module. It does not come with any wires; 1 wire would have to be added if adding this module to an existing Di2 system. SC Alfine Display Unit: This unit displays the battery level and the rear derailleur gear selection. It is primarily designed for Alfine systems both 8 series and 11 speed series.
It is compatible with Ultegra and Dura-Ace Di2. MT Digital Display with Bluetooth: Primarily aimed at XT mountain bike applications, this display allows toggling between the 3 synchronized shift modes where both derailleurs are intelligently coordinated in unison by one pair of buttons, so no need for discrete shifting of the front derailleur. Existing Di2 XT systems are upgradable to be compatible with the new digital display after battery upgrade and firmware upgrade.
This display has 3-port Di2 Cable junction and charging port integrated into the back and serves as a Front A Junction. The batteries contain the main controllers for the system. It is therefore required to upgrade the battery to get features released in new versions of Di2 such as Synchronized Shifting that automatically controls the front derailleur based on rear derailleur shifting.
It is removed from the mount and charged using a dedicated charger. It is available in 3 different mount lengths: -I intermediate length , -S short length , -L long length. It facilitates internal cable routing. It has 2 ports on one end and 2 on the other, making it more compact.
In addition to being located at the bottom bracket to connect the A junction, battery, front derailleur, and rear derailleur, it can be used at the handle bars to join multiple shifters prior to being connected to the A Junction.
SM-JC40 External Junction: This version is intended to be attached to the frame using the bolt that is commonly located underneath the bottom bracket housing. There are wire holders above the housing to capture the extra wire length by wrapping it back-and-forth. This can be readjusted later on. Part 2. Set the inner limit screw to prevent the derailleur cage from moving past the inner chainring. Shift the rear derailleur into the largest cog in the back and front derailleur into the smallest cog.
Using a screwdriver, twist the inner limit screw until the inner part of the cage is as close to the chain as possible without touching it. This screw is sometimes marked as "L. Adjust cable tension. Loosen the cable that is attached to the derailleur at the anchor bolt. Tighten this cable as much as possible and then make the anchor bolt tight again. It can be helpful to use needle nose pliers while doing this, but you don't have to.
Set the outer limit screw to stop the derailleur cage from moving past the outer chainring. Turn the outer limit screw with a screwdriver until the outer derailleur cage is as close to the chain as possible without touching it. Setting this limit will make sure that the chain does not over-shift and fall out again.
This screw is sometimes marked as "H. Part 3. Test to see if the derailleur is shifting correctly. Shift through the whole range of gears on your bike. The derailleur should be able to shift into small and large chainrings without rubbing on the chain. Use the barrel adjuster to tweak the position of the derailleur. Try twisting the barrel adjuster a few quarters of a turn counterclockwise to fine-tune the position. If you can push the derailleur out, it can mean your cable tension is not right.
Turn the barrel adjuster to fix this. Start trimming while you are riding. Trimming means making small adjustments while you are riding your bike. Doing this will help to protect the chain from rubbing against the derailleur. Shimano bicycles come with a half-click on the lever so that you can make these adjustments easily. Ride your bicycle as you normally would. Things should be running smoothly now! If the derailleur becomes misaligned again, you may have to do a more thorough job in fixing it next time.
Drew Hawkins1. To adjust the height of the front derailleur, locate the positioning clamp that connects the derailleur to the frame of the bike. Turn the clamp bolt clockwise to loosen it and then adjust the height.
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